Saturday, November 19, 2011

Tutorial: How to repair a dead hard drive

Tutorial: How to repair a dead hard drive:

Tutorial: How to repair a dead hard drive

Repair a dead hard drive: Where to start

When a hard drive goes bad, the first thing you'll probably do is have a good old curse at the platter gods for picking on you. You then might decide to have a bit of a panic when you realise that you didn't back up your files.

Shortly after sweating out a few pounds, you'll probably have a go at fixing it. Well, it's worth a shot after all. But chances are, unless you know exactly what the problem is and have the skills necessary to fix it, you're pretty much up poop alley.

If you're lucky and the disk head or motor hasn't been damaged, the problem could lie in the controller board or printed circuit board (PCB). Often, when there's a power surge or the drive overheats, it can damage the board. If this happens, then you can quite easily replace the PCB with one that is working and bring your hard drive back to life.

A common sign that a PCB has been in the wars is a scorch mark, but sometimes there are no visual cues to give the game away.

First things first

The PCB might not be the problem after all, then, but it's the one area of the drive that you should tackle first when something goes wrong. After all, a replacement PCB from a specialist like www.hdd-parts.com will set you back around £25 delivered to your door, so it's a relatively inexpensive way of fixing your drive.

If you were feeling plucky, you could just go to a data specialist and get a man in a white coat in a lab to carefully take your entire hard drive apart and put it all back together, in the hope of rescuing your drive, but you'll be looking at a bill for at least £1,000. Unless you really, really need the files on that drive, you'll avoid this route and go down the PCB road first.

Back to life

Does it really work? Well, we tried it on a drive that had suddenly stopped working one day. There were no horrible clicking sounds, it simply wouldn't power on – the thing was lifeless. So, we replaced the PCB with an identical working one and managed to get it working again.

This wasn't after trying it on many different drives – this was the first one we'd worked on, so it wasn't a fluke.

It's worth mentioning that if this works for you, and there's a pretty good chance that it will, once it's up and running again, don't get lazy and put it back in your PC. If it failed once, there's a probability that it will fail again. Our advice is to transfer all your sacred files to another drive and then bin it… or pop it in the trophy cabinet.

Step-by-step: Fix your hard drive

1. Take drive details down

step 1

Get a replacement PCB identical to your current one, otherwise it won't work. Note down the model number (below the S/N), the P/N, the Firmware code, Date code and Site code, as well as the Main Controller IC number, which is located on the main square black chip in the middle of the actual PCB. In our case it was the six-digit code near the top, above the word 'SEAGATE'.

2. Search for it online

step 2

Go to hdd-parts.com and enter the model of the dead drive (in our case, it's the 11-digit code two lines down from the top of the drive) into the search box at the top of the page. This won't give you the exact model, but look through the list of results and find the drive that matches all the numbers you noted down in the first step. Now, buy it!

3. Check your parts

step 3

The new PCB should take about six to 10 working days to arrive through the post. When the mail man comes round, you should receive a box with a replacement working PCB inside, as well as a torx screwdriver and installation instructions – not that you'll need this last bit. If something is amiss, email the company and they will get back to you within a couple of days.

4. Remove the old PCB

step 4

On top of the PCB you'll see five screws connecting it to the hard drive. Undo them using the torx screwdriver included in the kit, making sure that you don't lose any of them. They're pretty tiny, so once you've managed to remove them all, place them into a zip-lock bag so they don't go astray if you decide to have a break between now and the next step.

5. Attach new PCB

step 5

Make sure you ground yourself – an easy way of doing this is to put on an anti-static wrist band – and then carefully take the replacement PCB out of its anti-static bag. Pop it onto your old hard drive, making sure you line it up with the original screw holes. Take the screws from your zip-lock bag and screw the PCB down, ensuring each screw is reasonably tight.

6. Try out your drive

step 6

Turn on your PC. Then connect your hard drive to your dock, plug it into the PC and power it up. If the problem with your old drive was due to a faulty PCB, replacing it should now allow your drive to be recognised properly. Access the fi les you need, then copy them to your PC. Don't attempt to use the drive once this is done: chances are it might turn faulty in the future.





 

(Via TechRadar: All latest feeds)

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Persistent vs. Non-persistent Virtual Desktops

Petri IT Knowledgebase

Introduction

The virtualization phenomena began simply with server virtualization, but each year seems to bring to light a new use case for virtualization. What we are going to talk about in this article is specifically desktop virtualization.

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The desktop virtualization market has experienced substantial growth in the past 2 years. The niche players that own the lion's share of the market are Citrix and VMware. Citrix offers their XenDesktop approach to desktop virtualization and VMware offers VMware View as their solution. If you've been paying attention at all for the past 2 years you've seen the steady growth in the desktop virtualization war between these two virtualization giants. Either way you decide to go, you'll eventually come to the crossroads of deciding whether your virtual desktop infrastructure (VDI) will employ persistent desktops, non-persistent desktops or a hybrid persistent/non-persistent environment.

How do you decide which route to take? First off, you have to understand what these two types of virtual desktops are and their differences. By the time you get to the end of this article, my hope is that you will be able to answer that question for yourself and plan your VDI deployment successfully.

Persistent Virtual Desktops

Let's begin with persistent desktops. A persistent virtual desktop is one in which a user will be able to keep all the configurations and personalization they have created from session to session. Persistent desktops keep the user's profile and documents on a separate user disk, in order to keep the feel of a physical PC. For instance, if you are a user who has a persistent desktop and you create a desktop shortcut to your favorite document, when you end your session and log out of your virtual desktop, it sticks. The next time you come into work, or when you access your virtual desktop from your iPad at home (another post for another time), that desktop shortcut will be there.

Persistent Desktop Pros and Cons:
What's the benefit of a persistent desktop? What you do from session to session sticks with you. What's the downside to persistent desktops? Persistent desktops could potentially become an administrative nightmare. The amount of disk space needed to maintain this setting will grow and datacenter storage doesn't come cheap. Patching and upgrades are now necessary for each persistent image and this can eat up tons of man hours, which usually occur after hours.

Non-Persistent Virtual Desktops

In contrast, a non-persistent virtual desktop does just the opposite. A virtual machine is assigned from a pool of resources when a user logs in. That virtual machine will grab a user's roaming profile in order to establish their personalized settings. When you log into a virtual desktop (note that I said "a virtual desktop" and not "your virtual desktop") and do your work for the day, when you log off, that desktop is wiped clean. Wiped clean meaning, if you created a desktop shortcut, forget about it being there tomorrow when you log on, it doesn't keep changes from session to session. At the end of your session, that virtual desktop reverts back to it's original state before you logged in. Now, don't fret, hopefully your administrators have set up a home drive for you to save all of your work to, that will follow you regardless of what desktop you log into. Usually this is your H: drive or home drive in most organizations. It's never good to save to your C: or local drive regardless of whether you are on a physical PC, persistent virtual desktop or non-persistent. Usually C: isn't backed up and if you lose your session/hard drive, forget about what was saved locally, it's never coming back.

Non-Persistent Desktop Pros and Cons:
What's the benefit of non-persistent desktops? Patches and upgrades are more easily applied to a single image in a resource pool of virtual desktops which cuts the man hours required for management. The downside would be having to sync roaming profile changes between multiple sessions. The time it takes to log on will gradually increase with the amount of changes that are applied and updated to each profile.

Now that we understand the definitions and differences between these two virtual desktop types, let's figure out why you would chose one over the other, or have a heterogeneous mix within your VDI.

How Well Do You Know Your End Users?

Let's start with getting to know your end-users. How many users will be requiring a virtual desktop? Are you planning on deploying a virtual desktop to every employee in your organization? Are there any power users? What kind of endpoints are your users accessing their virtual desktop on? Wow, that's a lot of questions right off the bat, but questions that you need to know the answers to before you decide which type of virtual desktop you are going to deploy.

In most situations I've encountered, you will start off with a pilot program involving about 50% persistent and 50% non-persistent desktop deployment. The persistent desktops you will want to deploy to your power users, C level executives and such. The non-persistent desktops will go to the users who require less customization and are your typical 9 to 5 users. You want your C level execs to not deal with roaming profile issues while accessing their desktops from various endpoints and locations. A C level exec doesn't want to feel like they are on a virtual machine at all, they want to feel like they are at their desktop and all of their shortcuts, backgrounds, OS and applications are untouched.

If you are in a lab setting at an educational institute or a library, you want to be 100% non-persistent. You don't want users leaving any customization behind when they log off at the end of their lab time. I can't think of a more perfect scenario in which you would utilize 100% non-persistent desktops. If you are the systems administrator at a high powered law office, you want to be 100% persistent desktops. Why? Simply because you want each of the attorneys and or partners to have all of their applications and personalization in tact in order to have the least amount of intereference in their work environment. The same would apply to the paralegals and administrative assistants in a law firm, these are people that will be making profile changes on an almost hourly basis most likely. Of course there are scenarios in which you would deploy a heterogeneous mix of persistent and non-persistent desktops. You will find that a heterogeneous mix is the most commonly deployed VDI configuration and works well in most situations.

Summary

There are pros and cons to both types of virtual desktops. There are definitely scenarios in which you would deploy 100% persistent or non-persistent desktops. The end user and the way they interact with their virtual desktop should drive your decision as an administrator. Look at your environment from all angles and apply the principles we've discussed in this post to aid in your decision for your VDI deployment.

As always, you will get push back from some users in your organization when you deploy VDI regardless of the type. I think you will find that most end users will blame any degradation in speed or application performance on virtualization, this is not uncommon. Good user education and applying best practices put forth by the vendors will help keep your VDI deployment and management simple and easy to manage.

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Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Article: 10 things to consider when venturing out on your own

10 things to consider when venturing out on your own
http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/10things/10-things-to-consider-when-venturing-out-on-your-own/2825


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10 Things

10 things to consider when venturing out on your own

November 9, 2011, 11:59 AM PST

Takeaway: Walking away from a regular paycheck to join the ranks of the self-employed requires a huge leap of faith — and quite a bit more.

Recently, I posted a Call for Feedback asking you to weigh in on the issue of self-employment. It's a career decision that's on a lot of minds these days, as the job market recovers only in very small doses and as people become increasing unhappy in their current situations.

I read through all the comments you posted and all the email I received in response to this request for feedback. Based on all those responses, as well as on my own experiences, here are 10 things you should seriously consider before you venture out on your own.

1: Practice good financial management

Always bear in mind that a rainy day will come. So when the sun is shining, save. In other words, remember that the business cycle is volatile. When you're doing well, save money so that you can ride out the inevitable slow cycle.

Further, be disciplined when it comes to finances. Open a business checking account, pay yourself what you can, and avoid mixing business and personal funds. When possible, get the business its own line of credit, too. Never forget to pay your taxes and make sure you pay your vendors on time. Also, maintain a cash flow you can rely on.

The most basic precept that came from the feedback I received, however, was this: Make sure you have enough cushion to get started! Get the absolute basics — supplies, equipment and things like health insurance for your family — handled before you leave the comfort of the full-time world for the excitement of self-employment.

The lesson: Make money, keep the tax man off your back, and make sure the important stuff is covered.

2: Learn to love to sell and self-promote

The most important part of business is sales. If you can't sell, you can't succeed. As we'll see next, one of the critical lessons is to diversify. How can you diversify if you can't convince other customers or clients to come on board? If self-promotion doesn't come naturally to you, learn how to get it there. Without the ability to tell someone why they should pick you, you can't grow your business.

The lesson: Sales and marketing make the world go round! Learn to love the game.

3: Diversify your customer base as quickly as possible

If you have one big client you work for, you've made a great start. Now, get the second one, the third one, and the fourth one. Take on as much work as you can from as many clients as possible without sacrificing your overall work quality. It's a lot easier for a company to drop a freelancer than to drop a full-time employee. When times get tough, they might scale back your work or cut it off altogether.

The lesson: Don't put all your eggs in one basket.

4: Make it legal

For every client — every client, even friends and family — write a contract for services. Too many friendships are lost and families broken over money. Further, if the time comes when you need to force the issue of payment or there is disagreement about the scope of a service, you will always have the paper trail that can back you up.

The lesson: Dot your I's and cross your T's. Don't leave anything to chance.

5: Love what you're doing

Your new endeavor is now your job, so you better love doing it. More than one respondent advised that people considering self-employment better get used to what could be long hours, a crazy schedule, and demanding clients. Although you may think that you get to set your own hours, that may not always be the case. Your clients may have different things in mind, so a new sense of flexibility may be in order. Self-employment is just like any other job in one significant respect: If you don't love what you're doing, you're going to be miserable.

The lesson: Love your job.

6: Stay relevant, stay sane, and stay connected

Many people wrote to tell me that training was critical. There is no longer a line in the corporate training budget for your professional development, nor is there a bustling office water cooler around which you can catch up on the day's gossip. It's now up to you to stay current in your chosen field using whatever means you can.

Find a way to maintain interaction with real, live people. Work at a coffee shop sometimes or rent an office. Likewise, consider using social media to satisfy some of your human interaction needs. Make sure you continually network with colleagues, competitors, customers, and friends. This might bring in new business, too.

Another reader suggested bringing on a partner to help each other stay focused and bounce ideas off one another. If you both can afford it, this is not a bad idea.

The lesson: If you fail to stay relevant and current with your profession, your business will fail.

7: Always get paid

I'll be the first to admit that I'm not that great talking money, and I hate following up on failure to pay. But, guess what? I don't want to work for free, either. Remember, your clients are not your friends! If you don't pay your bills, bad things happen. Your service gets cut off and your account gets sent to collections. Make absolutely sure that your clients are paying you so that you can stay in business. This is another reason that client diversification is so critical. If you eventually have to cut off a client, you need to make sure that it doesn't doom your business.

The lesson: Make sure you get paid 100% of the time.

8: Set rates and prices that are reasonable and livable

You want to be in business? Make sure your rates can keep you that way. Set your rates too low and you won't be able to survive and you will devalue your services. Set them too high and you won't have any customers. If you're unable to set rates and prices that allow you to survive and that customers are willing to pay, your business will fail.

When you're setting rates and prices, take into consideration the fact that you need to pay for your own health insurance, self-employment insurance, and other items you may have taken for granted when you were working full-time.

The lesson: Make sure you can survive your business.

9: Work in a dedicated space

One reader suggested that you go to an office everyday so that you don't go nuts at home, but others recommended simply having a dedicated office space from which you can work regardless of whether it's in your home. Personally, when I'm not traveling on a consulting engagement, I work from a home office. I don't want to pay rent and utilities for a separate space. If my business were to grow and I took on employees who needed to work together, I would then rent a space. I can certainly envision not wanting to have a bunch of people working in my home.

The lesson: Make sure your workspace is conducive to the kind of business you want to undertake.

10: Have some guts

It takes guts to cut the full-time tether. If you don't have guts, you can't survive self-employment. After all, there will be slow periods, and you'll need to have confidence that you can get through them without having to shut down. If you don't have confidence in yourself and in your business model, there is nothing wrong with sticking with the comfort of the 9-to-5 job.

The lesson: No guts, no glory! If you can't stomach uncertainty, stick with certainty.

Additional reading

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Scott Lowe

About Scott Lowe

Scott Lowe has spent 15 years in the IT world and is the vice president and CIO for Westminster College in Fulton, Missouri.

Scott Lowe

Scott Lowe
Scott Lowe has spent 15 years in the IT world and is the vice president and CIO for Westminster College in Fulton, Missouri. A regular contributor to TechRepublic, he has authored one book, Home Networking: The Missing Manual (O'Reilly), and coauthored the book Microsoft Exchange Server 2007 Administrator's Companion (MS Press).

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The Growing Malware Problem

Life as a Healthcare CIO
On Friday. I'm lecturing at Dartmouth College to the TISH workgroup (Trustworthy Information Systems for Healthcare) about the growing malware problem we're all facing.

Have you ever seen a Zombie film?   If so, you know that to stop Zombies you must shoot them in the head - the only problem is that the steady stream of Zombies never seems to end and they keep infecting others.   Just when you've eradicated every Zombie but one, the infection gets transmitted and the problem returns.   You spend your day shooting them but you never seem to make any progress.

A Zombie in computer science is a computer connected to the Internet that has been compromised by a cracker, computer virus or trojan horse and can be used to perform malicious tasks of one sort or another under remote direction.

Staring in March of 2011, the rise in malware on the internet has created millions of zombie computers.   Experts estimate that 48% of all computers on the internet are infected.   Malware is transmitted from infected photos (Heidi Klum is the most dangerous celebrity on the internet this year),  infected PDFs, infected Java files,  ActiveX controls that take advantage of Windows/Internet Explorer vulnerabilities and numerous other means.

Here's the problem - the nature of this new malware is that it is hard to detect (often hiding on hard disk boot tracks), it's hard to remove (often requiring complete reinstallation of the operating system), and anti-virus software no longer works against it.

A new virus is released on the internet every 30 seconds.   Modern viruses contain self modifying code.  The "signature" approaches used in anti-virus software to rapidly identify known viruses, does not work with this new generation of malware.

Android attacks have increased 400% in the past year.   Even the Apple App Store is not safe.

Apple OS X is not immune.  Experts estimate that some recent viruses infections are 15% Mac.

If attacks are escalating and our existing tools to prevent them do not work, what must we do?

Alas, we must limit inbound and outbound traffic to corporate networks.

BIDMC will pilot increased restrictions in a few departments to determine if it reduces the amount of malware we detect and eradicate.    I'll report on the details over the next few months.

One of these restrictions will be increased web content filtering.    I predict in a few years, that corporate networks will advance from content filtering to more restrictive "white listing".   Instead of blocking selective content categories, they will allow only those websites reputed to be safe (at that moment anyway).  I think it is likely corporate networks will block personal email, auction sites, and those social networking sites which are vectors for malware.

It's truly tragic that the internet has become such a swamp, especially at a time that we want to encourage the purchase of consumer devices such as tablets and smartphones.

I've said before that security is a cold war.   Unfortunately, starting in March, the malware authors launched an assault on us all.    We'll need to take urgent action to defend ourselves and I'll update you on our pilots to share our successful tactics.
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Tutorial: How to clean up and declutter your Mac

TechRadar: All latest feeds
Tutorial: How to clean up and declutter your Mac

How to declutter your Mac

Suddenly a dialog box pops up on your screen: 'Your Startup Disk is full'. It's the final confirmation of what you've been dreading - your hard drive has finally run out of space and now you've got to do something about it. The question is, what?

You might be shocked at seeing the message. When you booted up your shiny new Mac for the first time, you couldn't believe how much hard drive space there was - you were confident you'd never fill it up, and yet here you are, a matter of years (or even months) later, and you've gobbled up every last ounce of capacity.

Don't panic, though, because we'll show you everything you need to know to solve the problem. You'll learn to identify the tell-tale signs of a rapidly constricting drive, plus discover what files are likely to be the cause of your woes. You'll then be armed with 10 tips to free up space on your drive.

Once you've fought that fire, we'll reveal more permanent solutions to the problem of keeping your drive empty so it can do its job properly: from moving key libraries and other files to a second drive, to safely upgrading your existing system drive to a larger, faster model. It's all here, so read on to become a disk-cleaning wizard.

Where does all the space go?

signs

With all that free space disappearing fast, you need to understand both where it's gone and the consequences of letting your hard drive fill up to its limits.

The first thing to understand is how your hard drive has become so full. The likelihood is you've installed a fair few applications, some of which you were trying out and forgot all about during those heady days when you thought that space would last forever. That can account for a few gigabytes of space easily, but it's only the tip of the iceberg.

Next, there are all those files you've downloaded from the internet via your browser, or received as email attachments. Again, it's easy to let them just pile up on the off-chance you might need them at some unspecified point. All well and good, but yet more gigabytes of precious drive space have gone in the meantime.

The biggest drain on your hard drive will, however, be your personal files, and specifically all those photos and videos you've uploaded from your brand spanking new camera and camcorder. Today's high resolutions come at a price - every 10-megapixel photo consumes around 4MB in JPEG format, or up to 15MB in raw format. That equates to anything from 400MB to 1.5GB for every 100 photos on your hard drive.

It's even worse when you look at all the camcorder footage you've got stashed away. The average one hour HDV tape holds 13GB of data, so it doesn't take long to gobble up hundreds of gigabytes with your original footage, never mind the final edited movie.

It doesn't end there either: your iTunes library can consume more than its fair share of space, what with your music collection, podcasts, movies and TV shows to handle.

You might also be surprised to learn how many duplicated files exist on your hard drive - it's bad enough having two or three copies of a file, but when that file is a 10GB movie you can quickly see how it is that the hard drive that looked virtually bottomless a few months ago is suddenly full to the brim.

Facing the consequences

It's therefore obvious that even the largest hard drive can quickly become overwhelmed with all those files you've been copying to it. Having acknowledged that this isn't just a problem for MacBook Air owners with a paltry 64GB of drive space, what are the tell-tale signs that your drive might be starting to reach its limits?

The first landmark isn't one that will necessarily trigger any alerts, and occurs when your drive nears 90% of its capacity. Your Mac needs at least 10% free space on the drive to help it keep files in a neat, contiguous order (a process known as defragmentation).

As your drive fills up and the defrag process grinds to a halt, your files start to get split up into multiple parts to fit the available space, ending up physically scattered all over your drive.

File fragmentation may not be an issue for newer solid-state drives (SSDs) due to their lack of moving parts and an ability to access any part of the drive almost instantaneously. But for the vast majority with traditional drives (HDDs) which utilise rotating platters and mechanical drive arms, fragmentation is the first tell-tale sign that all is not well.

You'll start to notice performance suffer as the drive works harder to read and write files. Your Mac becomes increasingly sluggish. You're not doing your drive's physical health any favours either since its moving parts have to work harder, increasing drive temperature and ultimately shortening its lifespan.

Running out of space

out of space

The next milestone is reached as the amount of free space drops below 1GB. Certain applications may start to display warning messages, and performance slows even further.

Your Mac itself will start to tell you the drive is full or almost full, and exhort you to start freeing up space. You'll also start to get error messages every time you try to copy large folders to your drive, informing you there's not enough drive space to complete the operation.

Push things further, and as your free space dips below 100MB you'll find things get even worse. Applications routinely 'borrow' tens or even hundreds of megabytes of space when running, and the most resource-intensive applications will start to complain loudly about a lack of drive space, or even refuse to start at all.

Eventually you'll reach the final point: there will be little or no disk space left at all. Applications won't even be able to launch, while those applications already running may suddenly grind to a halt or begin to quit unexpectedly. Hopefully you'll never reach this point: the time to take action is when your hard drive approaches the 90% full mark, before any warning messages start to appear.

Diagnose the problem

The first thing to do, then, is find out how much free space is left on your system drive. You'll then want to identify which files are taking up the most space on your drive - it's quicker and easier to deal with a handful of large files than to try and free up a relatively small amount of space by working with dozens or even hundreds of smaller files.

It's a relatively simple process to discover how much free space is left on your hard drive: open the Go menu in Finder and select Computer. Click your system drive to select it, then press Command + I. (Alternatively, right-click the hard disk icon in Finder's sidebar and select Get Info.)

On its own, this doesn't really tell you much - simply how much free space is left on the drive. While it's possible to use the Find option in Finder to hunt down those files taking up most space on your hard drive, a better bet is to use a tool like the visually appealing DaisyDisk or Disk Inventory X to find out where those space-hogging files are.

In the case of Disk Inventory X (a PPC app, therefore non-Lion systems only), fire up the program after installing it. Select your drive from the list and click Open Volume. Once the drive is scanned, you can quickly and easily locate the files taking up most space.

What Disk Inventory X will confirm is that the bulk of your files reside in the Users folder inside your Home folder. That's unsurprising seeing as this is where all your movies, photos, music and other files are likely to sit.

Now you've acknowledged there's an issue, identified the likely culprits and taken that all-important backup of your drive, you're ready to start tackling the problem.

Top 10 tips for freeing up space

Reclaim much-needed disk space by removing files you no longer need

Daisy disk

01. Empty the trash

When was the last time you emptied your Trash folder? People often make the mistake of simply dragging files into the Trash and forgetting they're still there, continuing to take up precious space on your hard drive.

Assuming you're not foolish enough to use the Trash as some kind of half-way house for files you think you might need at a later date, the quickest way to free up much-needed space is to empty it.

Open the Finder menu and choose Empty Trash to do so - if some files refuse to vanish, repeat the process, holding down Option before you click Empty Trash to remove stubborn files.

02. Clear out downloads

If you regularly download apps and other files from the web you may find one easy way to free up a few gigabytes of space is to check the Downloads folder for files. Delete any you don't need, or drag the lot to the Trash - you can always download them again.

Mail users can also clear up space by deleting long-forgotten file attachments from their mail. These are stored in your personal Library/Mail Downloads folder - it's hidden in Lion, but you can access the Library folder from Finder: hold down the Option key as you click on Go and select Library. Deleting file attachments from here won't affect the original messages. .

03. Remove duplicates

Singlemizer

One of the biggest causes of wasted file space is duplicate files. You'll be amazed how many copies of the same file could be clogging up your hard drive. Decent duplicate-finding tools, like Singlemizer, do more than just look for matching filenames - they check the file itself to make sure it's a genuine match.

Singlemizer (£6.99 from the App Store) offers a free trial that lets you perform 20 scans of your drive before registration is required. Simply select the drives or folders you wish to scan, and then leave it to do its work.

All deleted files are sent to the Trash, so until you empty it, you can still get them back.

04. Clear out the junk

You might be surprised at how much drive space is being taken up by files you've long forgotten about. Tracking them down can be difficult, which is where DaisyDisk comes in.

It simplifies the process of identifying large files on your drive, letting you identify and - if they're no longer needed - delete them too. Note you'll need to purchase the full version (£6.99, App Store) to actually delete the files from your drive.

05. Compress old files

If there are files you don't want to lose, but don't necessarily need quick and easy access to, consider compressing them into zip file archives, which - depending on the file type - could free up significant amounts of free space.

Don't try to archive everything in a single zip file. Instead, archive groups of related files or individual folders by selecting them in Finder and choosing File > Compress…

Once complete, delete the original files and folders. To restore the archived files, just double-click the zip file to automatically extract their contents.

06. Streamline your apps

App cleaner

How many apps have you installed that you've never or rarely used? Another way to free up space is to delete these unwanted programs from your drive.

Dragging the program icon to the Trash is a rather imperfect solution; instead, use the free AppCleaner.

Launch the program and click Applications to view all currently installed apps. Tick those you wish to remove and click Search. Deleting programs through AppCleaner ensures a large number of related files are deleted, along with the application itself.

07. Find similar apps

With the help of a site like http://alternativeto.net it's also possible to source alternative applications that take up less drive space than the applications you're using.

Take Adobe Reader for example - why install an app that takes up 450MB of drive space when you can get most of its functionality in Skim, which takes a up a trifling 13MB, instead? Download it from http://skim-app.sourceforge.net.

08. Clear out your browser

Your web browser can build up a significant amount of clutter over time too. All browsers make use of a cache, a special folder where material from websites is downloaded to speed up future browsing of the pages in question. Technically there's no limit to how big these grow, so if you don't empty it regularly, it can soon start taking up lots of drive space.

Thankfully, erasing the cache is a simple process. Safari users can select Safari > Empty Cache, while Chrome users should select Chrome > Clear Browsing Data, tick Empty the cache and click Clear Browsing Data again. Other browsers - like Firefox and Opera - work in a similar way.

09. Clean up after iLife

It's safe to say that media files - photos, videos and music - take up the most space on someone's hard disk. Before you discover how to safely move these to another drive to free up space, start by emptying the Trash in both iPhoto and iMovie - any files deleted in the application go here rather than the actual Trash folder, so expect to free up a large amount of drive space.

You can streamline things further by rebuilding databases - hold down Option+Command as you double-click the app icon to do so. Tick Reclaim unused disk space from databases to free up some extra space.

10. Take the lazy option

If all of this sounds like too much hard work, try an all-in-one tool like MacCleanse (£5.49, Mac App Store) instead.

This will clean out everything you need from within a single app, but be warned: it's possible to make a Mac unbootable if you go too far. Back up before you begin, just in case your cleaning proves to be overzealous.

Long-term solutions

You've cleared a bit of space, but now it's time to sort things out permanently

iPhoto

Hopefully you've now cleared enough space from your drive to help resolve any low disk space messages you've been getting, and to ensure your drive has at least 10% free space.

That's great in the short term, but unless you consider some more permanent solutions, the same problems will reappear. The simplest thing to do is to move as much of your data as you can to an external hard drive.

Network drives

Network drives act as a central repository for all of your networked computers' spare files, but don't work with all files (such as iMovie Events). Performance will also depend on the speed of your network - use wired or HomePlug connections as opposed to wireless where possible.

Most of your data will be stored inside your Home folder, which resides inside the Users folder on your system drive. By moving some or all of the data inside this folder to your external drive, you'll free up a significant amount of space depending on how many photos, videos and other large files you possess.

The obvious solution is simply to move your entire Home folder to your external drive. While it's technically possible, it's both fiddly and potentially dangerous. If you move the Home folder, then your external drive must always be attached or connected in order for you to log into your account when your Mac starts. If the drive is lost or damaged, you'd be locked out of your profile or - if you're the only user of your Mac - your entire computer.

A safer, better solution is simply to move enough files to free up a comfortable amount of space. Which files should you move? The obvious answer is the largest ones, but you also need to consider convenience: will your external drive always be plugged into your Mac?

If you're a MacBook user, you may not want to be tied to even the slimmest external drive in order to access your files. So it makes sense to ensure those files you can't do without are always accessible on your Mac's system drive, while less essential files are moved to external drives.

Span your media

Tunespan

Which files you decide to keep and which ones you move across ultimately depends on your personal preferences, but you'll probably find it's practical to leave the contents of your Documents folder where it is, while any files you've kept in the Downloads folder can be safely moved across to your external drive.

Where things may get tricky is with your media files - you may find yourself wanting permanent access to certain movies, photos or music, while others can be safely stashed away on your external drive.

When it comes to the contents of your iTunes library, your music, movies, podcasts and TV shows, you have two choices. To move the entire library across to your external drive, follow the step-by-step guide here.

If you'd like to split the library between your system drive and your external drive so that favourite tracks are always available, it's possible to span your collection across two or more disks without messing up your iTunes library.

To do this, install a free program called TuneSpan. The step-by-step guide below reveals all you need to know about using it.

When it comes to your iMovie video collection, it's possible to move selected movies from your Event Library to your external drive.

Fire up iMovie, then click the drive icon next to Event Library to see all available drives. Now Command-click on those Events you wish to move to select them. Finally, hold Command as you click and drag the Events to your external drive to move them to that drive and update iMovie's references.

They'll remain in the library, but will only be accessible when your external drive is connected and switched on.

How to span your iTunes folder across multiple drives

01. Pick tracks to move

tunespan 1

Install TuneSpan and launch it. Select an external drive as the location to span selected iTunes content to. Then drag and drop tracks, albums or the entire output for a selected artist to the grey bar near the bottom of the screen. The bar shows the space freed.

02. Start Spanning process

tunespan 2

Once enough space is freed, press Command+B to review the items you've added to your queue (press again to return). When ready, click the Span button. Read the warning before clicking Span again - you'll need to manually update the iTunes library for any missing tracks.

03. Spanning in practice

tunespan 3

When the drive isn't present, TuneSpan can remind you of what tracks are unavailable in iTunes: select TuneSpan > Preferences > TuneSpan Helper and set both Allow to always run and Auto launch at login to Yes. Close and reopen TuneSpan: click Allow.

Manage iPhoto library

You're probably aware just how large your iPhoto Library file is (you'll find it in your Pictures folder). It's quite unwieldy, but what can you do about it? iPhoto supports multiple libraries, so one solution is to create different libraries for different groups of photos, allowing you to move some libraries to your external drive while keeping others to hand on your system drive.

Use iPhoto Buddy (free) to help manage and switch between multiple libraries in iPhoto quickly and easily. It's also possible to keep the size of your new iPhoto library down.

Before importing any photos, choose iPhoto > Preferences > Advanced tab, then untick Copy items to the iPhoto library. This prevents the photos being duplicated in your library unless you subsequently edit them (they're then duplicated into the library to protect the originals).

That's all well and good if you're just starting out with iPhoto, but if you've got a massive library already in place, packed full of photos you've already edited, what then?

One solution is to right-click the iPhoto Library file and choose Duplicate to create an exact copy. Rename it according to the subset of photos you wish to include (for example, 'Family holiday 2011') and then use iPhoto Buddy to open it in iPhoto. Remove all the photos and folders apart from your family holiday snaps (remember to empty the iPhoto Trash) and then marvel at this slimmer library. Simply repeat the process for each new library you wish to create.

When you're finished, delete the original library. You can now split the remaining libraries between your system hard drive and your data drive accordingly.

How to upgrade your Mac hard drive

Replace your Mac's drive with a bigger, faster model

replace drive

Ultimately you might decide it's not convenient - particularly if you're a MacBook user - to store your data on a separate external drive to your Mac. If you want to keep everything on a single drive, your final option is to upgrade the drive inside your Mac with a bigger model.

The first question to ask is whether or not it's something you can do yourself. Macs aren't equal, and some models are easier to upgrade than others.

The benefits of upgrading yourself are typically that you get to choose the exact drive you want at a price that's cheaper than paying someone to do the upgrade for you. The downside is that you'll invalidate any warranty you have and could look to face a hefty repair bill if something goes wrong.

If the idea of upgrading doesn't put you off, you need to discover if your Mac is one of those models that can be upgraded, or upgraded without recourse to an Apple Service Provider. As a rule of thumb, Mac Pros and later MacBooks (MacBook Air not included) are the simplest to upgrade, Mac minis are considered somewhat difficult, while iMacs are - to all intents and purposes - impossible.

To see the process you'll need to follow to upgrade your Mac's hard drive by yourself, visit http://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/ for a series of instructional videos. If your model isn't listed, or you don't like what you see, it may need to be upgraded by your local Apple Store or Service Provider. If they can help, you'll be tied into their choice of drive and will have to pay an additional premium for fitting.

Pick the right hard drive

It's important you pick the right type of hard drive for your Mac: that means SATA rather than IDE for all Macs since 2006. The other key consideration is that you pick the right size drive for your Mac - 2.5-inch for MacBooks, MacBook Pros and Mac Minis, and 3.5-inch for Mac Pros.

MacBook Airs don't use standard SATA drives - we cover this separately below. You then need to choose between a traditional hard drive (HDD) or the newer, much faster solid-state drive (SSD).

SSDs are unbelievably quick compared to their sloth-like rivals, consume less power and are silent in operation, which makes them a perfect fit for MacBooks. But all of these benefits come with a hefty premium attached. The sad, unpalatable fact is that a 64GB SSD will cost you the same as a 2.5-inch 750MB or 3.5-inch 2TB HDD (around £90-100). You'll get a major performance boost, but you won't solve your disk space problem.

There is a third way in the form of a 2.5-inch hybrid drive from Seagate. As its name suggests, the MomentusXT Hybrid combines traditional HDD storage with a tiny amount of SSD (4GB). Thanks to the drive's adaptive technology, your most frequently accessed files are placed on the SSD portion of the drive, which helps provide a notable performance improvement with reading (but not writing) files.

It's a lot less expensive at £80 for 500GB, but it's not all good news, particularly for MacBook owners. That's because the drive can cause some vibration and actually consumes more power than a traditional HDD drive.

Whatever type and size of drive you decide to purchase, there are some other considerations to make that will have an effect on the performance of your new drive. All 2011 Mac models utilise the newer SATA-600 (6Gbp/s) standard, so opt for a SATA-600 model over the older SATA-300 model if possible.

Other considerations

If you're buying a HDD, also look to replace your drive with a 7,200rpm model for maximum performance, although be aware this will generate more heat and consume more power than a slower 5,400rpm model. Also, look at the size of the onboard cache - a drive offering 32MB or even 64MB will outperform one offering 8MB.

If all of this sounds like too much hard work, we've dug out a few models that tick all the right boxes depending on your Mac. If SSD floats your boat, and you can afford the hefty premium, the Crucial 128GB M4 SATA-600 (£170) is worth considering. Mac Pro users will need a special adaptor, such as Icy Dock's MB-882SP (£12) to fit it.

Mac Pro users get the best deal in terms of value and capacity thanks to the fact that 3.5-inch drives are cheaper and more versatile than 2.5-inch models. 2TB drives are now widely available, and Hitachi's Deskstar 7K3000 ticks all the right boxes in terms of performance: 7,200rpm, SATA-600, 64MB cache. Expect to pay around £75.

1TB models are starting to make an appearance on 2.5-inch drives, but SATA-600 models are still a rarity, and come with a hefty price premium (expect to pay around £150 for a 1TB model).

If you can live with the slower SATA-300 standard, however, look at Western Digital's Scorpio Black range, one of the few to offer 7,200rpm and 16MB (as opposed to a measly 8MB) cache on its mobile drives. Its 750GB model costs around £73.

MacBook Air

As we hinted earlier, if you're looking to upgrade your MacBook Air's internal storage, it's a different kettle of fish altogether.

The 2010 and 2011 models both utilise SSD storage with mini-SATA connectors, so you'll need a special drive if you want to go down this route, and with a hefty premium to pay (as much as €1,400 for the Aura Pro Express 480GB from http://www.macupgrades.co.uk/store/) it's something you might want to reconsider.

Fitting your new drive

restoring

If you're upgrading your drive yourself, make sure you take one last Time Machine backup before you swap out your old drive for your new one. Once the new drive has been fitted, switch on your Mac.

Lion users should create a boot drive or disk; Snow Leopard users should insert their OS X install disc and hold down the C key.

Then it's a simple a case of following the step-by-step guide below to restore your latest backup to your new drive using Time Machine.

Once done, you'll be booted back into OS X as if nothing had happened, except now you'll be able to take advantage of the extra speed and larger size of your new hard drive.

How to restore your Time Machine backup

01. Prepare new drive

restore 1

Open the Utilities menu and select Disk Utility. Click your drive, then either choose Partition, or Erase to set it up as a single drive. If selecting Erase, give the drive a name and click Erase again. Once the process is complete close Disk Utility to return to the main menu.

02. Select a backup

restore 2

From the main screen either click Restore from Time Machine Backup (Lion) or select the option from the Utilities menu (Snow Leopard). Click Continue for it to detect your drive. Select the one with your backup and click Continue to view a list of available backups.

03. Select destination

restore 3

Pick the latest backup from the list and click Continue. Select your new drive from the list and click Restore followed by Continue. Your last backup will now be restored to your new drive. Once done, restart your Mac and it should take you to your desktop.



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Monday, November 7, 2011

Article: The five best emergency toolkit apps to have in the field | TechRepublic

The five best emergency toolkit apps to have in the field | TechRepublic
http://m.techrepublic.com/blog/five-apps/the-five-best-emergency-toolkit-apps-to-have-in-the-field/1131?tag=nl.e101


Five Apps

The five best emergency toolkit apps to have in the field

By Jack Wallen | October 31, 2011, 12:46 PM PDT

Quick: If you had to narrow down your portable toolkit to just five tools, what would they be? Hard to name them, isn't it? Well, never fear. I have put together a list of five tools, and I think you will agree they all have a place in the perfect emergency toolkit. Each tool serves a different purpose. Together, they make up a kit that I think will make your life a heck of a lot easier.

1: ComboFix

ComboFix is the Mac Daddy of virus and malware removal tool. It goes even further and removes rootkits and Trojans. But this isn't one of those tools you can install on a machine and let it work in the background. ComboFix must be added to the machine, run on the machine, and removed from the machine. And while this tool is running, don't let anyone use the machine it's cleaning. ComboFix can cause panic on a PC if things go south.

2: KNOPPIX

KNOPPIX is a live Linux distribution that can fit on a flash drive. With it, you can boot into a full-blown Linux distribution that contains many helpful tools. You can recover data from an unbootable drive, troubleshoot various aspects of a non-booting Windows drive, remove corrupt files, and much more. Many people don't realize just how valuable it is to have a full-blown, bootable Linux distribution with more than 2 GB of software ready and waiting.

3: PuTTY

Being able to secure shell into a remove machine at all times is invaluable. For many, the use of the simple RDP protocol is fine. Problem is, it's not nearly as secure as it should be. So if you want your remote logins to be secure, add a little ssh goodness to your toolkit. PuTTY gives you just that — a Windows executable that allows you to connect to any remote machine running a secure shell daemon (so long as you have the credentials to get through).

4: BlueScreenView

When Windows blue screens, it spits out a core dump. That core dump contains a lot of valuable information that can help you figure out what caused that blue screen. Trust me, that is a heck of a lot better than trying to write down what the blue screen message displays –and usually, that's not much. There is one catch here. I am a fan of the Ccleaner tool. Ccleaner is set up, by default, to remove all those memory dump files. So if you use Ccleaner, be sure you uncheck the option to delete those files. Otherwise, a tool like BlueScreenView will be of no use.

5: Roadkil's Unstoppable Copier

Roadkil's Unstoppable Copier does one thing and it does it well: It copies data from broken drives. And it's good at it. But UC isn't just for getting data off broken drives. You can also use it as a daily backup (using the Batch Mode function). That's right. Not only will it recover data, it will help prevent you from needing to recover that data from a bad drive. This tool works by attempting to recover any readable piece of a file and then tries to put the pieces together. It's pretty amazing how well it works.

First aid for field emergencies

If you've been looking for the perfect toolkit to handle emergency recoveries, look no further than the five tools above. With this combination, you should be able to tackle just about any software crisis you encounter in the field.


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Article: If Spotlight does not find a file or a file's contents

If Spotlight does not find a file or a file's contents
http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20111103045420308


13,000 hints and counting!


If Spotlight does not find a file or a file's contents System
Nov 07, '11 07:30:00AM • Contributed by: MacTipster
Sometimes Spotlight does not find a file or a file's contents when searching and re-indexing does not help with it.

The culprit was a wrong permission on the file, which was generated when saving it from one Mac to another via Go » Connect to Server. When trying to move such a file from one folder to another on the destination Mac, it always asked for the Administrator password.

It turned out that such file had permissions as 'Nobody Read and Write.' Adding the Administrator as Read and Write did not help to find it with Spotlight.

The workaround is to create a new folder, drag and drop the files or folders containing files that are not found by Spotlight, select this new folder, do File » Get Info and check Apply to enclosing items to change the permissions.

Like magic, a second later Spotlight finds such files and their contents.

What I do not know is if there is a way to automatically find and repair the permissions of such files, other than doing it manually on a one-by-one basis, or for the whole user account home folder.

[crarko adds: I can't say I've seen this particular one before, but it does seems logical that Spotlight wouldn't index a file that has no read permissions. The other question to ask is how the permissions got whacked in the first place.]

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